Hot and cold and very beautiful

Here's a potted version of my Iceland trip -as always I've been trying to cram so much in, I've run out of time.....

On Thursday morning I tramped around Reykjavik - a city centre which is even tinier than I'd been led to imagine - it really is like an English county town, except with a slightly strange collection of buildings, a mix of corrugated steel and concrete. There's a lot of building work going on, not all of it popular (the locals really don't want yet another hotel, and who can blame them?) and the graffiti "taggers" as well as the artists have made it this far north - so I wouldn't call it picturesque, though it has a charm and of course with an incredibly low crime rate it has no edge to it. I saw a police car today, and apparently that's quite rare!

It's very laid back (service in some places a bit too much so!). For lunch yesterday I was in search of traditional lamb soup, but couldn't find it so ended up with some jolly nice fish soup in a restaurant called Laundromat - it's the first time I've paid £14 for soup, but I was in a rush to get to my free walking tour and desperation had sunk in. If you want a burger or any other kind of fast food in Reykavik, it's easy! I did succomb to a hot dog from the famous van today - been here since 1937. It was only a couple of quid and actually quite nice for a hot dog. Fastest service ever!

I was recommended a nice little cafe bar called Kaffe Konsul and can report back that both coffee and cake are excellent, and service with a smile in easy chairs.

The walking tour was taken by a wag who fancied himself as a bit of a comedian, and gave us quite a lot in the way of history, but not much in the way of walking and I'd like to have seen a few more monuments, historic buildings and such - it didn't help to orientate me the way that other tours have done. But I met 3 really nice women and met them again on the Golden Circle tour, and we've been out for dinner tonight as it's the last one for all of us. And despite the Icelandic comedian where the only part of his act we understood was the strangled cat, we had a nice evening listening to some Christmas songs, eating fish and drinking wine. Kate, Tracey and Annie, I hope we meet again soon - it's been a pleasure.

Also on Thursday night I got on a coach that took me to another coach that took us out south east of the city to see the Northern lights. I did see the aurora borealis but not in colour - it was white and subtle but very pretty nonetheless, and I was quite mesmerised. Once it had ebbed away, we went on to Thinvellir to try and catch some more - though sadly they didn't materialise, I did see the best starry starry night ever, plus shooting stars and more twinkle than I could every imagine. No pictures whatsoever have come out - :0(

A first this trip - going to the theatre to watch something in a foreign language! I'd been lucky enough to be given a free ticket to the National Theatre of Iceland's version of the RSC's Robin Hood - I was told as it's very visual so I should be able to work out what was going on and I could - it had a lot of As you like it about it, with Maid Marian being Martin and so on. It was very physical, almost circus-like, with lots of music and performed with great vim and vigour. But considering it's a production aimed at families, was quite surprised by the level of suggested violence. Really - hangings, threatened beheadings and throat slittings, a tongue cut out - plus quite a lot of sexual references that even I and the kids could understand, plus a wet camisole (there was much use of an on-stage pond, and a fiery pit - really well used) . I guess Icelandic children are brought up on Vikings....enjoyed it nonetheless, with very inventive use of a massive sloping backdrop covered in green velour.

However, having gone straight home to bed on my return the night before, apparently I missed a spectacular show visible from the city itself if you were high up enough. So last night after the theatre I went out to the beautiful church (below)which is fairly high up and was treated to 4 little shows - I got very excited and cried a bit.

The other bonus, courtesy of Wendy from Colerado who was also up at the church (we'd met at breakfast on the first day, and she loves Reykjavik so much she's been about 12 times), was a moonlight visit to the sculpture garden of Einar Jonsson. It was made even more special by the sparkling frost on the sculptures, which are quite breathtakingly beautiful. I returned there tonight with Tracey, Annie and Kate, as a consolation prize for not having seen any aurora...

I didn't really take any pictures of the Blue Lagoon as I hadn't realised I could acquire a special waterproof pouch, but to be honest it all got a bit misty and hard to see. I enjoyed the warm waters, and the mud face pack - would like to have stayed a bit longer and spent more time in the sauna and steam room, but must admit that the presence of the annoying and slightly drunk American I mentioned in my FB post was a bit of an encouragement to get my scheduled bus. Very pricey though! 10 quid for a towel, a drink and a few samples on top of the entrance fee included in the trip. The area around it is like a lunar landscape - beautiful and bizarre.

When I came back I checked out the National Gallery of Iceland and was a bit disappointed as the main exhibition by Nina Tryggvadottir didn't float my boat. They're very proud of a Picasso they acquired 'Jacqueline au ruban jaune'

and I really enjoyed the scupture of Nina Saemundsson, who also has a work just down the road of a woman and child. There are lots of great sculptures around the city too

Mother and child

From a distance - yes I thought he was real...

Sculpture in the park

My last day was the Golden Circle coach tour which took in Thinvellir the rift valley where the tectonic plates of Eurasia and North America meet, Gulfloss with the amazing waterfalls, some exploding geysers and finally a little show at Fakasel of the very cute and very talented Icelandic horses, who have 2 extra ways of moving beyond a walk, trot or gallop - they also have a tolt and a pace move where their legs go 19 to the dozen and their rider remains remarkably still. And here are some photos of all these beautiful things

Sundown near the geysers

My name is Mushroom, and I can trot really really fast

Golfloss

The rift valley - America meets Europe

Orgasmic guyser

|Little ponies in action

I left early this morning with a slightly tight and fraught journey to the airport in terms of timing - and Mr Minneapolis was in my departure lounge, but thankfully although he didn't recognise me I still hid anyway. Home is very mild in comparison, and the first load of washing is done. I now have 9 weeks til I go back to work and it's going to be so tough....

Iceland is beautiful place - it's so dramatic and wild, yet Reykjavik is so parochial. Can't decide whether I want to return for the land of the midnight sun or again when it's snowing with a second chance to see a more animated northern lights and the beauty of the snow and ice. Gotta save up first though....thank you Vikings....

Down to zero

Well actually that's probably a bit overdramatic. They've obviously had some snow here in Reykjavik, but although it's certainly chilly compared to dear old London town it's only just dipped below freezing at the moment.

After a busy month volunteering for Crisis at Christmas (which will continue til mid January) and You Me Bum Bum Train (good fun), and taking over SLT Box Office (if I offer to do any more volunteering, will someone please shoot me), I have a mini break in Iceland as I got a Groupon deal which seems to be one of the cheapest ways to get a chance to witness the wonder of the Northern lights.

After an ok flight from Gatwick via Squeezyjet and 2 well-organised coaches, arrived at this nice little Hotel Fron around 8.15pm. I'm handily slap bang in the middle of the city centre, with the main shopping street  Laugavegur right outside my window. Haven't really explored very much beyond here as of course when it's dark it's a tricky exercise, plus I was hungry and concerned about kitchens closing. Pity really, when an ok salmon dinner with a glass of wine and a coffee has cost me £30 - so I have to ignore the "sod it" instinct over the next few days I think to be good to my waistline and my wallet!

When I say it's the main shopping street, it's more like a county town rather than Oxford Street - quite narrow, chicaned and with very little traffic. Lots of nice shops, some quite out-there merchandise, but not many price tickets in the windows. And a Rossopomodoro Italian joint, which is a bit bizarre - of all the chains to find. All very Anglicised, apart from the restaurants which sell puffin, lobster and whale meat, none of which I will be eating. There's also a cuddly toy shop devoted entirely to puffins, and one to polar bears. Polar bears aren't native to Iceland, but apparently one or two have rocked up. Odd. There are probably more of them in the shop.

The coach driver said that a lot of coaches have gone out in search of the Northern lights tonight, so I do hope that we get clear skies tomorrow which is what's needed to encourage their appearance.

I'll keep this pretty brief as I want to have an early night to make the most of the one full day I have in Reykjavik tomorrow - plus I have no pictures yet. I worked out tonight that this is the 27th place I have stayed in since my long leave began in July, and the first one that I've bought thermal underwear for. So I hope it does get colder, else that will feel like a waste as it never seems to be cold enough at home, and being a woman of a certain age my need for this type of garment has diminished considerably - I'm usually the one glowing violently in the corner of the tube carriage......

All good things...

1/2  November

The last day of my big trip and again the weather was kind, perfect for a visit to Marche des Puces at Porte Clignancourt, which has come a long way since Gill visited 30 years ago. The area around the metro and en route to the antique markets is a bit rough, and is full of guys selling knock off watches, phones and sunglasses which they shove underneath your nose. Once you get past the Peripherique bridge though, a left turn takes you into more civilised territory, though getting there before 10am meant that there wasn’t much open.

60s pod - the home of the future, outside and in

The area is divided into several markets, mainly antiques and especially furniture and lighting.  (Less interesting, but there’s a fair amount of new clothing too.) We saw the most beautiful gleaming bakelite furniture - never seen quite such a collection before - it looked as though it was lacquered. There were all kinds of antique kitchen wares (I was close to buying a wooden coffee grinder but it was a bit pricey), metal signs, photos and magazines, record players, clothing, plus repro retro petrol pumps, juke boxes and the like. It’s a fascinating mix and worth a visit even if you’re there to browse and not buy - if you’re into vintage jeans, leather and fur it’s also a good place. As most of the markets are under or mainly covered, with permanent and semi-permanent units, I think most of them would be open through the week as well.

After coffee sitting on a sunny corner, we went by metro to Bastille and had a fresh air stroll along the Promenade de Plantes (it runs parallel with the Rue de Lyon), and into the Jardin de Reuilly-Paul-Pernin. 

It’s a garden trail (though mainly with trees and shrubs rather than flowers), all above the road and mostly along a disused viaduct. We had to dodge the joggers a bit, but it was a peaceful contrast to the market and a fun way to view the local area, where there are some beautiful old apartment buildings that have been tastefully updated, with colourful balconies and brickwork and restored period details.

After lunch we set off for the Musee d’Orsay - all the museums in Paris are free to enter on the first Sunday of the month, and though the queue was quite long we got in fairly quickly with a good 90 minutes to browse. The building is beautiful, especially the big clock, but the layout is annoyingly confusing on different levels - will still return on another trip though.

Van Gogh was a must for me of course, and I enjoyed the Manets, Degas, Cezannes and Renoirs in the Impressionist gallery. There was also a really interesting exhibition of the work of female photographers in the early part of the last century, and some great Rodin sculptures. And I bought one last fridge magnet. (I’m going to need a bigger fridge.)

Camellias

Manet's sister in law I think

A room of his own

Those eyes tell you everything

We took a twilight walk across to Place de la Concorde and saw the Eiffel tower glittering in the distance. 

The obelisk was bathed in golden light and looked particularly gorgeous as the evening traffic hurtled around it. 

We wanted to take a look at the Pompidou centre - we were a bit art-ed out but thought it would be interesting to see the building and have a drink. It’s a bit disappointing that the fun fountain outside isn’t illuminated, and we had a very disappointing abortive trip to the bar on the roof where they seemed to be happy to seat but not serve us (though a bottle of ordinary wine was pretty expensive), so maybe I’ll go back another time. 

Street art nearby deserving of a place in the gallery I reckon

We had a nice glass of Chablis on the other side of the square instead, before returning to Marx Lemoy and the freindly neighbourhood Bistro D’Olive for dinner.

Our return Eurostar train left around 1130. When I woke up this morning I felt really excited about the prospect of coming home, and just a bit tearful. I realised I felt almost the same as when I set out on 5 September - a mixture of excitement and anxiety, and tinged of course with sadness that my amazing trip is at an end.

Now I'm home and posting this, and am still surrounded by the chaos of 2 months's absence, and of course the machine loads of washing and the post that needs processing - but my lovely flat was clean and tidy when I got back, and it's good to be home. Back to some routines as soon as possible, and a new adventure starting at Crisis on Wednesday. I want to do some reflecting on the trip and supply some high and lowlights, so will post again before the end of the week when I've had time to collect my thoughts.

Le weekend en gay Paree

30/31 October

So if anyone tells you it's difficult to get from San Sebastian to the French border, I don't know what they've based it on but we found it so easy. One Eusketren from the Amara station, taking 37 minutes, running every half hour and stopping 20m away from the SNCF station at Hendaye. Simples. I have no idea why no-one on Trip Advisor could come up with a straight answer to this.

After a 6-hour journey through beautiful countryside and via Bordeaux, we arrived at Paris Montparnasse and managed to negotiate the Metro to the slightly dodgy part of Montmartre where we're staying. It's not far from Gare du Nord so we had an easy walk pick up Gill and our Eurostar return trip on Monday will be simple too - but let's just say that the area is a wee bit edgy. The flat we're staying in is very sweet but it's definitely not suitable for 3 women who don't wish to share a bed and we've ended up having to move furniture in order to try and sort out sleeping arrangements.

Anyway, we ate out locally last night (on our host's recommendations) and tonight and both times we've been pleasantly surprised at the value and quality of the neighbourhood restaurants we've chosen. This morning it seemed rude not to visit Sacre Coeur as it's only 20 minutes' walk from here - it was a foggy morning so the view across Paris was hampered a bit, but it's still a beautiful church.

We went for a walk through Montmartre and a coffee,

 and Gill did a little unexpected shopping with encouragement from me as it always does my heart good to watch someone else spend money. We got on to the metro at the beautiful Art Noveau station at Abbesses

and went Seine side - what I can advise is (at least for probably the next year) that if you're contemplating using Chatelet metro, don't - it seemed that as we approached it, every single exit was shut off and the arrows pointed a different way - we felt as though we were going round and round in circles. I think it took us 10 minutes from platform to exit. Our mission was to cross to the left bank and visit La Chappelle, the stunning medieval church with amazing stained glass windows.

After lunch

it was back on the Metro to Pere Lachaise cemetry - it was a beautiful day weather-wise today, so it was a good day to visit and lots of the graves had fresh flowers on because 1 November is All Souls' Day. We didn't manage to see all the famous graves we wanted - Jim Morrison's is a mess with so much junk on it, plus it's hidden behind one of the family mausoleums so not that easy to see - and Oscar Wilde's is a lovely Art Deco tomb, though covered in lipstick - why?

We took a little time to visit Galleries Lafayette and Printemps on Boulevard Hausmann to look at their respective domes and lights - the only word is really opulent, but we could only admire the displays as the glitz and glamour price tags were rather beyond us. I just felt so grubby in my jeans and Converse....in fact I've been feeling a bit grubby for the past two months! I'm looking forward to wearing heels again, and maybe a skirt...

Printemps

Sadly dome was out of bounds for a private function so can't compare it with the beauty of GL below 

Dome at Galeries Lafayette

Yes, it's Christmas

We decided it was time for Aperol Spritz just off the shopping drag, but were sorely disappointed at the standard and the horrific price - I'd paid 12 euros in Milan too, but at least it was nice with the right amount of Aperol. Seems the Italians know best when it comes to this particular cocktail.