Sunday, 3 January 2016
Fake blonde's tour highlights
A lot of people have asked me "what was the best place you visited?", or "where would you want to go back?" I thing that having set myself the challenge of having a taster of so many places, it's not necessarily that everywhere rolls into one, more a case of there are some moments that stick out in my mind where I felt especially happy or moved by what I was experiencing - and some are the kind of things that I may never be able to relive, even if I revisit.
So to assist my own memory and set my thoughts down for the record as much as anything else (so it does go on a bit), here's a list of the best moments.
In Canada - seeing the Grahams again, walking near the lakeside on Prince Edward Island with Toni, and the sculptures in Montreal.
In Boston - having a lovely dinner on the first night across the bay from all the lights of the city, rediscovering the Holocaust memorial, walking the Freedom trail, and visiting the fine art museum; walking on the beach at Hyannis and going to the top of the monument in Provincetown
Losing the fear - 5 September was the day I left for Europe, and as I rushed around my flat getting everything ready and trying to leave it in a good state for flatsitter Geraint, I had a growing sense of trepidation which began to turn into a panic attack. Could I do this mammoth trip, most of it by myself? I was quite tearful and as Eric accompanied me to the station in Clio, I had to breathe deep to calm myself down. Eric came with me on to the platform at Beckenham Junction, gave me a hug and said "I'm going to leave you now, because you're going to be fine". And the train pulled in and I heaved Nellie on to it, and as it pulled away and I braced myself as you do when you're standing, suddenly a great weight lifted and a happy calm descended. Suddenly I knew I was going to be ok. Thanks Eric.
Dinner with H and Tony in the old post warehouse on my first night in Ghent, the picturesque buildings all crammed together in various shapes and sizes, and the golden dragon on top of the belfry. Talking to Joel the lovely barman on my second night there.
The Van Gogh museum, the flower stalls in Amsterdam, and Rembrandt's house where I loved his drawings (though the city itself didn't inspire me that much - too many close encounters with bicycles!)
Spending time with dear friends David, Steve and Rick in Berlin, including of course Cafe Eckstein, and the Red & Gold Bar; Gleich 17 at Grunewald made a particular impression on me.
The unexpected and occasionally bonkers architectural details on buildings in old Prague (but pretty dreadful food)
Feeling so tiny compared to the grandeur of the statues and palaces of Vienna, and the Danube at sunset - my stay there felt too short, and I'd like to go back
Many highlights during my 2 weeks with the lovely Neil, but including seeing Buda by night across the Danube on a beautiful balmy first evening, our Budapest walking tour, and discovering the ruin bars; our lovely apartment in Blaha Vintage; stepping out into the sunshine by the sea in Montenegro after our journey from hell on the train of death (but boy didn't that bottle of red taste good when we got to our quirky apartment?!); the magnificent views from old Bar and also the coach journey to Dubrovnik; walking into Dubrovnik old town with Guy with the beautiful lights following the amazing sunset, and finding that sweet little wine bar in the side street; being given shelter and a beer in a stockroom/kitchen when we got drenched walking the wall; sitting on the ferry watching the lights of Dubrovnik as we sailed away to Italy; the Castellano Grotto caves near Alberobello (and the very bad singing of the busker as we queued); the train from Salerno going on to the ferry bound for Sicily; arriving in Taormina and being given unexpected delicious snacks when we staggered down the street and found a bar for a nightcap after 10pm, having been travelling since 7am; and although the weather in Sicily was dreadful, the breathtaking views such as from Castelmola, the wine tasting near Mount Etna, and not least - having such lovely, easy company for 2 weeks!
The views from the apartment in Positano, the fresh figs for breakfast, the first day lunch at the beach restaurant, the views in Ravello and enjoying the vintage Cinqecentos "in giro" in the company of my old and very dear friends Marie and Chris.
The Pantheon in Rome, and the organic pirandello ice cream I had before I went in; meeting Ana the charming Polish girl and Gianni, a friend of my Air BnB host; the hidden gem of the Palazzo Doria with the magnificent Velasquez portrait, together with seeing Caravaggios for the first time (if indeed that is the plural of Caravaggio)
My lovely Air BnB host Elsa in Milan, with her suggested highlights of the unfinished Michelangelo sculpture and the church of Santa Maurizio with its amazing frescoes.
The lifts and funicular railway in Genoa that transported me to amazing views, together with the two wonderful exhibitions I saw there at the Palazza Ducale, and the bonkers movie tribute museum.
The pont in Avignon against a backdrop of a clear blue sky on a crisp sunny day and the rooftops of Arles, together with the David Hockney exhibition at the Van Gogh foundation
Spending time with Nick and Chrissy Clark in Dernacueilette, especially dinner on Saturday night with Jane and Hanxall, and our trip to the seaside at Courillon, even if the car did break down.
Reacquainting myself in Barcelona with Senor Gaudi, (especially the interior of the Sagrada Familia), Parc Cuitadella, the views from the cable car, and meeting two great NZ women, Karen and Rebecca, on our walking tour
The beauty of the rugged landscape seen from the window of the train en route from Barcelona to Madrid (and from Madrid to Bilbao too)
The joyous mariachi band in La Lantina quarter in Madrid, the buzz of the market and the Plaza del Angel, the fantastically cheap quality wine served with delicious olives, and seeing the powerful and affecting Guernica
The architecture of Bilbao, the Guggenheim (especially Puppy, and especially at night) and the yummy pincxos and wine in every bar
The lights of Paris; the Christmas-glittered sparkly dome of Galleries Lafayette, a sunny Saturday morning in Montmartre, good company and the treasures of the Musee d'Orsay
And finally, Iceland - the dance of the northern lights, the frosted sculpture garden at night, sitting in a theatre watching a show in a foreign language, the sun coming up over the rift valley, the warm bath of the blue lagoon, the sun going down over the geysers, and the sheer majestic and awesome power of the Gulfloss waterfalls.
What a journey I've had. Would I do it again? Well probably a less punishing schedule, and not for two months, but railway journeys yes and accommodation at under £40 a night yes!
What a beautiful place the world is, despite the crap that fills our news feeds every waking hour. And all I can think of is how lucky am I to have seen so much of it...
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