I planned this trip by looking at a rail map of Spain and Portugal and working out my route. My dates were determined by a couple of other commitments, and I knew I didn't want to be in Spain when the heat really hits, so April/May seemed to have been a good time to come, with temps in the low 20s - very civilised for walking about.
But - I didn't take into account the plethora of Spanish holidays and ferien around this time. Yes, I know I'm a tourist too, but I really wasn't expecting the swarms I've encountered in Cordoba and Seville, with kids still apparently off school and lots of Spaniards doing just what we would do on bank holiday weekends - visiting their great cities and historic sites, just as we would in York, London or Windsor. And as I catch up on the blog I'm about to leave Seville - today has been Labour Day so not only has it been very busy, but a lot of things haven't opened, even supermercados and museums.
Arriving early in Cordoba on Friday to a rather grey day, I got a cab to my accommodation (kind of on the border of old and new towns) and was allowed to stash my bags so I headed out with map in hand as usual, got some breakfast and then immediately got lost in the warren of streets which form the old town and supposedly the "Jewish quarter" which officially is just a handful of alleys and a very tiny synagogue, the Jews having been chucked out in 1492 just like the Moors before them.
I stumbled across the great mosque (Mezquita) which was of course taken from the Moslems when the Christians conquered the city and established Catholicism. The simple beauty and pared-back design of the mosque has been (in my view) spoiled by the elaborate Catholic decorations and artefacts simply added on, but I guess at least the mosque survived, which didn't really happen in Seville where only a small corner remains because the Christians ran out of demolition money. It's a rather hefty 13 euros admission, and I've discovered that the further south I come, the more expensive the major sites are getting!
I was very happy with my accommodation - massive bed, coffee machine, fridge and nice touches. It was 210 euros for 2 nights, and well located. All over the city on this particular weekend the flowers of the cross festivities were taking place. I'm sure that at the floral crosses are erected there's some kind of religious ceremony, but the main activity seemed to be the plethora of temporary bars (and loos) that had been set up around the crosses, offering all-day outdoor drinking, mainly for younger people, and very loud music.
My room, however, seemed to be hermetically sealed against the noise - and I've certainly slept well pretty much every night so far, despite the practice of eating late dones't always agree with me.
I visited the Alcaza of Christian kings which was a fortress initially built by the Romans and then subsequently added to by the Visigoths, the Moors and then Isabel and Ferdinand who ruled their Christian kingdom from Cordoba. It was also the home of the Spanish Inquisition - and although because of Monty Python we joke about it, over the course of over four centuries it was responsible for the torture and death of thousands of "heretics" - and, who knew, it wasn't disbanded until 1834. The fortress itself wasn't that spectacular, but the Moorish gardens were delightful (with their clever irrigation courses, another Moslem innovation) and I would have returned for the sound and light show there later but tickets and timings were rather elusive.
After that I went on a patio tour (we'd really refer to them as courtyards, as they're inside open to the elements inside houses rather than at the back or side of them) that I'd booked on the advice of a couple we'd met briefly in Madrid. The patios were beautiful - they're there all year round but there's a massive push in April/May ready for a competition (the prize is about 6k euros, which probably only covers the cost of creating the displays in the first place!) Originating from shared courtyards when several families were crammed into one house, they follow a fairly traditional style, with mainly bright blue pots containing manly red and pink geraniums. They're fabulous, and turn simple whiteashed homes into something very lovely, but if I'm honest, my tour guide was about twelve with very little personality and had no idea how to use a microphone, and once you've seen one patio.....if you go, I'd advise do it under your own steam and own pace rather than traisping around in a big group as the waiting around to gain entry into very small spaces got a bit tedious. The statues below of a grandad and grandson are intended to promote the idea of the generations continuing the tradition - there's some concern that it will die out.
I ate out later at a very lovely restaurant called Casa Rubio as it had caught my eye - however, I got tucked away upstairs where I sat in splendid isolation for quite some time and had a very expensive and average salad that tasted of very little. The meal wasn't cheap but was redeemed by decent wine and a very scrummy tart of indeterminate ingredients for dessert. Cordoba old town was rammed with the floral cross celebrations going on, but it felt like a very "locals" thing so I didn't venture into the crowds - as apart from anything else, I wouldn't have been able to hear anyone even if they did talk to me!
I went on a guided walk the following day, meeting at the very fine Roman bridge (though they didn't build it), which goes over a river that submerges a small forest - the water levels have dropped considerably over the years. The walk was fine but I'd already done a number of the sites (and seen more than my fair share of patios) - got to pick up more of the historical info though. Afterwards I visited the Banos del Acazar Califal - basically where the Moorish rulers got to bathe before popping across to the mosque, and then by way of contrast took a look at the tiny synagogue.
It had started to rain so I found a little place for lunch, and then went shopping in El Corte Ingles' equivalent of Next called Sfera and bought cheap sleeveless tops - I am reaching a bit of a wardrobe/underwear crisis. I then took a walk to see a bit of the modern part of the city, along with some green spaces and some old buildings - none of which were open to view sadly.
Walking through some of those green spaces in the sunshine, some of which run alongside main roads and provide welcome respite from traffic, I had a tremedous rush of joy and freedom. As always, I consider myself so very lucky to have the means to travel and explore. They're the kind of feelings you never want to end, just living in that moment. And a little smile to myself - not only do you get a generous countdown to cross the roads on pedestrian crossings (sometimes up to a minute), but on some of them the little green man rather than flashing, walks faster as you get into the last few seconds.
I'd booked into a recommended restaurant nearby that evening, and (apart from being seated leper-like from other diners in the square) with swifts swooping around overhead, I had a lovely meal consisting of soupy coconut porridge with mango and smoked tuna (trust me, it works), followed by pulled ras el-hanout lamb crepes with some super-secco white wine. I walked into the square to watch some very entertaining flamenco and followed up with a superb and probably very naughty gelato of creme catalan. Sadly the blog won't seem to allow me to post videos, so you'll have to make do with a still of one of the troupes who used walking sticks to dramatic effect - quite mesmerising, even if they weren't always totally in perfect synch. And respect to the musicians, including the backing clappers, who must have rhino hides for hands.
On to Seville tomorrow, where I'll be meeting up with chum Rob Wallis for a day. The floral splendour of Cordoba will be a lovely memory.
