Country life

So here I am in Dernacueillette, deep in the heart of the Aude region of France, where Nick and Chrissy have made their lovely home - actually three houses in one, it's still a work in progress complicated by bits of it being owned by other people, but what they've achieved is fabulous. It's so very quiet here - after weeks of city life, it feels quite strange to be in a place where I haven't heard a car, or an ambulance, or people shouting. It's a lovely contrast, and I should make the most of this peace before I move on to the bustle of Barcelona on Tuesday.

My train journey yesterday started with another late train, but it was a comfortable, often scenic trip via Nimes, Montpelier and Sete, and it made up some time. Nick and Chrissy picked me up in Narbonne and we went to Les Halles, the big food market, for lunch. It's obviously the place to go to eat on a Saturday, and it was packed. One of the eateries is run by a guy who shouts across to the butcher opposite for the meat he needs, order by order, and the butcher wraps it up and chucks it over to him, which is not only entertaining but I guess a guarantee that what you're eating is ultra-fresh.

We had some lovely tapas, though I discovered on trying them for the first time (yes, I'm not sure how I've managed to avoid them either) that I don't like oysters - if I could just lose the taste for champagne I really would be a cheap date.

We then drove via Nick's workplace so I could get my guided tour to learn a bit about wine production - after all, I drink enough of the stuff so it seems only right and proper I should understand how it arrives in my glass. (Interesting local practice of rural roadside love for sale here - those ladies are taking a risk to earn their money.)

I've arrived at the tail end of the vendage, and yesterday I learned about the process of grape harvesting at the very modern cave (pronounced carve) where Nick works, which produces over 100,000 bottles of red a year. I had a guided tour, and chatted to the two Sams, young English guys who are making wine production their careers and who have permanently red-stained hands. This isn't traditional winemaking, as it is on an industrial scale with lots of high-tech equipment, but this is still premium quality wine, mainly exported to the US.

After a climbing hairpin bend trip amid wonderful rugged scenery, we arrived in Dernacueillette, which means the final cut - in other words the vines in these here parts are the last to be harvested. I had a guided tour of the house which is on lots of different levels, so by the time I leave I might know my way around! We had a lovely dinner in the company of Jane (whom I'd met at Nick's 50th, and who has a house in the village) and her new chap, Hanxall, happily supplemented by lots of great wine and cheeses, some of which were new to me and very delicious. Great company and wonderful hospitality - so nice to be eating in someone's home instead of a nightly restaurant (never thought I'd say that!). Late to bed and slept like a log.