Giddy heights in Genoa

Today has been largely a good day - I ate fruit and more vegetables and it stopped raining! I am still feeling very self-conscious as I wander round (and, if I'm honest, glowing in ladylike fashion ever-so-slightly) without a coat as for me it still feels pretty warm, so I stand out a mile as an English tourist. And of course as a woman of a certain age who has to keep random leaflets in easy reach for fanning purposes. (A woman in a gallery in Rome came up to me and proudly showed me the silent personal fan she'd bought off Amazon which she wore like a necklace/scarf. I have to say I'm tempted. Put it on my Christmas list, someone.)

This morning I turned the other way out of the pension from the usual and found a street I'd walked through yesterday without realising I was within spitting distance of "home". Still, it's an entertaining street with lots of interesting shops and general local buzz, and I enjoyed meandering my way to the Palazza Ducale where I went to see not one but two fantastic exhibitions. One was excellent and influential late 19th and early 20th century art collection from Detroit, including a great mix of works by Vincent Van, Matisse, Modigliani, Renoir, Picasso and many more. The other was quite simply one of the best photographic exhibitions I've ever seen - 'For the love of Paris', featuring the work of Brassai. Find out more here http://www.atgetphotography.com/The-Photographers/BRASSAI.html

Unfortunately taking photos wasn't allowed, but they wouldn't have been much cop as all the work was under glass. I was lucky because there were only a handful of others there, so I had an uninterrupted view of Paris by night, Paris nightlife, toffs at Longchamps races, society Parisians and the Kennedys at Maxim's. There were enchanting photos of children, beautiful erotic photos, and he even managed to make the seedier side of the city look glamorous. I very rarely buy exhibition catalogues and of course this time the added weight for Nellie meant this was no exception, but I'm going to look up more of his work when I get home - I just walked around the whole show with a big smile on my face, and am now really looking forward to my final weekend in gay Paree with Carol and Gill at the end of the month.

After that my inner geek took over and I went up and down the hills from the old town in Genoa in the lifts and the funicular railway - such fun, and a fantastic panoramic view from Spionatta di Castellato. The lift that follow on from the funicular is a very dull metal box, so not recommended, and as you can see nothing escapes graffiti vandals here, even this beautiful old panelled lift. (I'm not calling them artists. There's a difference between proper street art and ugly egocentric tagging.)

After minestrone at the charmingly-named Dad & Son cafe just up the road from Al Basilisco, I went to Palazza Reale for a bit of Baroque. Well, a lot of Baroque. In fact so much Baroque, I gave up taking pics as there are only so many ceilings and gilt stuccoes one wants in one's photo gallery. (Have to confess to a few selfies in mirrored surafaces though). It was a very fine place - the exterior maybe a little neglected - but was once the home of major Genovese families and Sardinian royalty until it became one of the Genovese palazzos (along with Bianco, Rosso, and 3 others) that came under World Heritage UNESCO protection in 2006.

Yup, spot the selfie

Bigfoot

There are that many palazzos in Genoa, especially in Via Garibaldi just up the road from me, that you'd be hard-pressed to shake a stick - evidence of Genoa's wealthy mercantile past. And gorgeous they are too, though all with limited access as they're used for other purposes (such as banks, of course) as well as places of public interest and museums for tourists like me.

A brisk walk and a piccolo gelato later (white choc and praline, if you're asking - and of course cheaper than Rome or Milan), I decided to make the most of a discount and hop on a City Sightseeing bus (the discount was even more because the guide undercharged me - but I'm afraid I declined to point out her error as I didn't think this one was great value). My feet were aching a bit and I wanted to see new as well as old Genoa, and was sure I wouldn't get very far under my own steam.

I was enjoying the wind in my hair on top of the bus as the sun came out, but that was when the shitty thing happened and the bus got diverted along with all the others doing 3-point turns in front of it on the Via XX Septembre. Some poor soul (I can only presume a jumper) had committed suicide at the top of the street, so yet again my (this time short) journey was disrupted by someone who couldn't take it any more. I felt sick and sorry that I was feeling happy at their moment of despair. I just hope this is something that doesn't come in threes.

Determined to cheer myself up, I found the quirky little cinema museum I'd passed on Monday and paid my 5 euros (got a written receipt, it's just some retired guys with a hobby I think) to see their mad collection of movie models and memorabilia for popular blockbusters - see my FB post for more

On return to the B&B, I popped into the Chiesa San Siro next door to it - from a very plain exterior, the inside just blew me away. I've seen a lot of churches on this trip, but this was amazing with a frescoed ceiling and beautifully lit. Sorry no pics - I always feel awkward doing them in churches - but should you ever be fortunate enough to visit Genoa, nip in and take a look.

I splurged on a jolly nice (if a little overpriced - restaurant with style over substance, really should've taken the opportunity to go rustic) dinner of fettucine, white wine and a very very bad for me dessert, and now I'm finishing off the latest blog before packing up for my 7-hour trip to Avignon tomorrow, from where I hope to renew my acquaintance with Vincent Van and Cezanne.

Arrivederci Italy - I think I'll be back as soon as I can manage it, to pick up on all the things I missed this time around in Sicily, Rome, Milan and Genoa; the latter two, I reckon, can form one weekend as it only takes about 90 minutes on the train between them.