Monday 20 May 2019
Arrived in NOLA (New Orleans Louisianna - the acronym is everywhere) after a comfortable (double seat to myself - whoop!) if chilly flight and 3 movies. Interminable wait at passport control where as usual US Border Security makes you feel like a criminal with finger print and mugshot taking, though at least the guys were friendly. Quick taxi ride, Air BnB accommodation found eventually and specs steamed up as I got out of the cab with the rampant humidity (which thankfully didn't bother me too much the rest of the time). Managed to get in after some fuss as access instructions were a tad unclear and I wasn't at my brightest! Feasted on snacks and beer as I unpacked, very happy with the little shotgun house (so called as back in the day you should have been able to get a clear shot through the house)- went to bed, or rather climbed in as the mattress is at hip height - very comfy though.
Tuesday 21 May
Rose early after fitful night's sleep, rather than lying around getting cross about not sleeping. Walked into city via rather grungy, dusty route and uneven neglected pavements which were to prove my literal downfall later in the day with a spectacular trip and fall on Charles Avenue.
Arrived at Canal Street and then meandered to Jackson Square for walking tour - area round Bourbon St still quite sleepy at that time, though you can still feel the sleaze. Stopped for coffee and super-sickly almond croissant at Cafe Beignet and enjoyed a jazz trio playing with remarkable energy at 9.15am. Entertaining walking tour of the French Quarter with guide Alec who was about to leave for a Europe trip. Lots of info, some of which I can recall, especially the quirkier details concerning early settlers. French Q is by turns pretty, charming, cultured and sleazy. The well-heeled and the drunken and down and out are present in equal quantities, but along Royale and Chartres I saw more antique shops and art galleries than I could shake a stick at.
Caught the Charles streetcar back - they're charming, and really haven't changed much, though the streetcar named desire sadly closed just after the play opened. It's not the most comfortable form of transport, but it's cheap (3 or 5 day passes are great value), frequent (there's an app!) and a great way to see the city.
Walked down Jefferson Avenue to Magazine Street in search of recommended po-boys at Guy's, and shops including Whole Foods for some groceries (turned out I went the wrong way for WF!) Shops are often chichi and quite small but an interesting mix - Magazine St is very long and I think I was expecting some big names, but it's more of an eclectic mix of independents. Found Guy's for the hot chicken po-boy (very nice, but way too big, so though I took half to go I still had to chuck it as pretty nasty served cold)
Found a grocery store for some essentials eventually, then headed home very sore of foot and in haste tripped and fell over carrying 2 bags right outside Macdonald's. People gathered to help me up and I tried not to cry. Forearm bleeding, knees again the main victims.
Cleaned myself up, kipped a while and went back into the city to meet Kim and colleagues, supped at Bateau (nice Blue Moon beer, pretty ordinary jambalaya with horrid tasteless bread) , quick nightcap served in a PLASTIC cup (tsk - this city lives on disposables) before heading back on the streetcar.
Wednesday 22 May
Streetcar into city, got off a little early and explored a bit around arts district, but not much to see - crossed Canal St, went for coffee at funky coffee shop EnVie on Decatur Street, and then wandered again into French Quarter via Sephora, did bit of window shopping. Met Kim at 12.30, went to Ole Saints for lunch, then we came back to the apartment to settle her in. Later we headed off to Magazine Street - streetcar let us down so walked the 2 miles, with most shops on the point of 6pm closing, so had delicious happy hour margaritas and nachos at Juan's Flying Burritos
before slightly drunken shopping at Whole Foods - $90 later got an uber home and drank a bottle of wine and ate slightly disappointing WF chicken and salad. Earlyish night and another early wake-up.
Thursday 23 May
Voodoo tour which began and mainly took place in Louis Armstrong park, and was more of a lecture on the religion by Robi, a very flamboyant and entertaining high priest - demo of rituals with very bewildered young Vietnamese tourists! Kim and I were designated high priestesses of the group with me as Matriarch. The tour dispelled lots of myths about voodoo, perpetuated by the Catholic church and Hollywood, but failed abysmally as a walking tour as we can only have walked about a mile!
On to the Pharmacy museum on Royale - lots of dusty exhibits brought gloriously to life in all their goryness by a very camp and brilliantly witty curator - had us in stitches but we learned lots - heroin comes from feeling heroic, lead used for baby bottles because sweet, language of colour for bottles and labels for literacy reasons, how soda fountains came about and much more, including how any woman's ailment was based on hysteria caused by her reproductive systems.
Muffilette for lunch - hmm, can't quite understand the fuss about all these sandwiches. But beer is nice. Wandered around, saw the Mississippi river (very wide, very muddy!), went back to Louis Armstrong park, then great Paloma cocktails at Bar Tonique. Ate near the apartment at Best Western Superior Grill, where the great food surprised us, along with the margaritas that despite being served in styrofoam (which kept it iced!!) were really good and really cheap. Both of us quite drunk, but woke with clear head to news of May's resignation.
Friday 24 May
Headed down to Riverwalk for a little retail therapy - bought some new walking sandals and Kim got a new rucksack, but tbh prices not that much cheaper - we still spent too much time trying stuff on!
Walked to Tourist Info on Andrew Jackson Square, picked up some leaflets and then went to get streetcar to City Park but realised was going to take longer than we thought - so we bought beignets instead, ate lunch looking out to paddle steamer which we booked for Sunday afternoon.
We went in search of the Voodoo museum and found it was rammed so looked at amazing Frank Relle photography gallery and beautiful and cultured Louisiana historical collection on Royal instead - feasts for the eyes.
Headed back to be picked up by Kim's old friend Frank and his wife Audrey and they took us sailing on Lake Ponchetrain for a couple of hours - beautifully quiet, saw sun go down and felt very privileged, especially as they then took us for lovely upscale dinner at Cavan on Magazine Street and insisted on footing the bill. Good to walk home as felt stuffed and sleepy.
Saturday 25 May
Across town on the streetcar to the City Park. Beautiful sculpture garden with works by Kapoor, Moore, Hepworth...I think all sculptures should be displayed in gardens.
Lovely botanical gardens too, with fountains and the cutest miniature railroad.
Nice if somewhat tardily-served lunch (beetroot and goat's cheese sliders) and then we wandered around NOMA - some nice works but not really organised that sympathetically, and visit somewhat spoiled by over-officious staff and then disruption caused by setting up for a wedding which was obviously more important than visitors!
Back on the streetcar into town for a swift gelato and a stroll down Royal and a quick supper at Muriel's Bistro (fried green tomatoes- ooh so good) then we got tickets for a show at the Petit Theatre - The Pianist of Willesden Green, a wonderful true story about a young woman escaping Nazi Austria for the UK via the Kindertransport, told in the first person by her daughter, also a concert pianist, so we were also treated to some fabulous music. Very emotional tale, standing ovation - movie coming out soon apparently.
Back out into the teeming streets in search of jazz - bit tricky by this stage of the night. Spotted Cat and Snug Harbor were both full, managed to get into Maison but the band were on their last number and the next act were a bit more funk than jazz. We managed to get into Snug Harbour for a drink and booked to go on Sunday night. Staggered back to Canal Street (Kimmy had had a little too much bourbon!) and then chatted with an army guy on the streetcar all the way home, which provided a Republican perspective on life, Trump and the universe! (though probably not too far to the right...)
Sunday 26 May
Wander round the mahoosive houses of the Garden District, built on the plantations and many owned at some point by celebs including Sandra Bullock, who lives in her Victorian pile for maybe a couple of weeks a year and then leaves it shut up the rest of the time.
Nice brunch (discovered I really don't like grits or biscuit and should ask for eggs over easy if I don't want gloopy sunny side up) in the cafe of the Pontchetrain Hotel before straphanging on the street car to Canal St and heading to the 2-hour paddlesteamer tour which was very pleasant, including a quiet little jazz band. A little bit of shopping, then home via nearby Fresh Market which I am still kicking myself for not discovering on my first day as if I had I might not have fallen over and still be suffering from a wonky knee and a stingy graze on my arm!
Freshen up and then back into town to go to Snug Harbor for dinner and jazz - latter was better than the former and poor wine choice on my part - but nice evening all the same. Uber back in flashy red car with a driver who said nothing and drove fast! I think I was much drunker than I realised due to powerful Windjammer punch....
Monday 27 May
Audubon Park via a little light retail therapy on Magazine St
Ate lunch in the park and then went to the zoo, attracted by the prospect of the reconstructed swamp with the gators. It's divided nicely regionally/by continent rather than by animal - shame that the tiger was so shy. Loved the noisy flamingoes. Great fish & chips at quirky Delachaise bar near our apartment with a nice bottle of Albarino to finish the day - good step count achieved!
Tuesday 28 |May
Plantation tours via coach with jolly and ever-so-slightly annoying but informative guide - dropped off at Whitney and Laura - both of which were fascinating with really knowledgeable guides who were passionate about revealing the truth of the history of enslaved people in Louisianna. I feel I understand more about slavery and the sugar trade, but feel no less angry about it - abolition turns out to be just a pause on the timeline.
Kim treated me to an elegant dinner at Muriel's Bistro (which is apparently haunted) to celebrate my retirement, followed by cocktails and jazz at Royal Sonesta hotel - old timers still cutting it, amazing.
Wednesday 29 May
Return to NOLA Historical collection to see the lovely French Quarter and Louisianna galleries, a few bits of shopping to catch up on, and a civilised lunch at shady Cafe Amelia courtyard.
Frozen margaritas to go from Superior Grill as we packed, then taxi to the airport where everything closed early even if you could afford to buy something (no duty free - WHAT??). Flight delayed but caught up pretty well and back to a dull and chilly Gatwick at lunchtime.
Great trip with lots of memories. NOLA is a real city of contrasts, very full on - I think a week is enough, though there's plenty to see and it has a unique if slightly sleazy buzz - it really is a city fuelled by alcohol, not always in a good way, but very lucky to have had the chance to see it.
No comments:
Post a Comment