Big boy Lewis

 12 September 2020

Why big boy? Apparently at 600 square miles it's the 3rd largest island in the British Isles after the mainland and Ireland, though I think you have to tag Harris on to Lewis to get that as physically they're not actually two separate islands.

A second helping this morning of quite honestly the best poached eggs EVER before leaving the lovely Woodbine House and Skye for the ferry. Having taken a Kwell to ward off any seasickness I dozed off for a while sitting in the lounge - at least with this big ferry we didn't have to stay in our cars, so I also got to see the beauty of Harris as we went into dock, where the sun welcomed us though I didn't manage to get a pic of the rainbow that was part of the greeting.

However, on arrival I drove north straight away as my Saturday night accommodation was in Stornaway and I'm back down to Harris tomorrow. The scenery was amazing - winding roads up and down in Harris around the sea lochs, then an immediate contrast as you drive over the barely perceptible border into Lewis, which is still spectacular but less mountainous - lots of rocky outcrops. The sun shone, the rain came down, the sun came out again - very blustery. I headed for the Callanish stones - a Hebridean version of Stonehenge. There are two small sites with a few upright stones of similar dimensions, and surrounded by sheep and highland cattle

and one large site, where a burial chamber was found. The usual questions - why and how? but would appear to have developed over hundreds of years and as you might expect, connected with ancient rituals and religious worship. As you can see, they're pretty big on the main site, with a couple around 12' tall. 

The visitors' centre exhibition was closed and the site was a bit light on info, but interesting to see nevertheless and I got a decent couple of miles' walk in. Again, sunshine and showers alternated. I am calling myself Mrs Two Jackets - a lightweight puffa is topped off with a folding kagoule as necessary.

After the stones I drove on to Garennin blackhouses which I knew were closed, but went for a look anyway again the route is always so picturesque, even if the road is a dead end!

This was a township only abandoned in 1973 - it was restored and several of the thatched buildings are now holiday lets - kind of the Hebridean equivalent of Trulli houses in Puglia. I don't know much more! I then headed to Stornaway across windswept moorland, arriving to find that my accommodation couldn't have been much different to the last; a huge, featureless hotel with a really bleak outlook. On the plus side, my room has a trouser press 😕

After dumping my stuff I had a walk around Stornaway and was not inspired. The art gallery and most shops were already closed, and those that weren't were tired and old-fashioned - it seems a place that time has forgotten and the grey weather only served to make it even bleaker. Ever the optimist though, I bought next year's calendar and diary from a little bookshop, anticipating that there will be a 2021. However, when I asked if they had a free map, they told me that the town hadn't produced any, obviously not anticipating any visitors this year.

I had fish and chips in the hotel restaurant and have come to bed early to blog and watch TV, feeling a wee bit down and concerned about the weather tomorrow which, combined with Sunday closures, I think will make for rather a dull day. I'll try and get a look at the castle from the grounds, but it would've been nice to see the Lewis chessmen which are in the museum. Can't be helped. Onwards and upwards...