I think I may have stayed in Tavira on an Algarve holiday in the mid 90s with my ex - I'm not entirely sure, bits of it felt familiar but we may just have visited for the day. Anyway, it's very pretty and was a perfect stopover between Spain and Portugal. The bus from Seville was an excellent run and the bus station was just across the road from the boho Al-Gharb guest house where I was met by lovely host Bruno who carried my case upstairs and showed me to my lovely little room. It made a change to have a room with some colour rather than calm neutrals; every room was named after a local hero - mine was Paio Peres Correia, who led the Knights of the Order to victory over the Moslem occupation in 1242.
Took a wander out, went to the train station and bought my onward reservations, eyed up some restaurants for later and had a glass of vinho verde. I ended up at a really lovely place called Ai Mae just across the river - the food was probably the best of my trip so far, though I think I've now eaten my own body weight in tuna tartare. Earlyish night, caught up on blog with stable wifi and watched some rubbish on Netflix which is a bonus to have when travelling alone and people don't talk to you in restaurants to help extend your evening!
After breakfast of granola and fruit in a cafe in the square (makes a change from a croissant), I went along the front to catch the ferry to Ihle de Tavira at the mouth of the estuary. It's only a 20-minute run (passing flamingoes en route) for a mere 2.50 return, and it's a really lovely spot with a very large sandy beach that's not heaving with people. Lots of bars and restaurants there, but it's all quite tastefully done and I enjoyed a pastel del nate and a couple of hours lying on the beach reading. The sea and the sky were 50 shades of blue with a gentle breeze - perfect.
I caught the ferry back into town for lunch (catching sight of a group of ladies holding a patriotic Coronation party a day early outside a restaurant, complete with flags and bunting) and a little shopping, then walked up to see one of the churches and the castle, finishing up in the Moslem museum which documents the time when the Moors were in occupation.
There really isn't a huge amount to see or do in Tavira, but it's very laid back and it was definitely my kind of beach. Ice cream inevitably followed, then went back to pack and went out for another great dinner at Come Na Gaveta (eat from the drawer, which the port merchant clerks had to do in order to continue dealing with clients during their lunchtime). The wait staff, all dressed in shorts, bow ties and flat caps, were charming and attentive, and the food was excellent, but the acoustics in the restaurant were really bad and the babbel of people celebrating Friday night didn't make it the most chilled place to be!
Early night beckoned with a stupid o'clock start next day to catch a train to Faro and then on to Coimbra via Lisbon. But was relieved that the journey would be made easier by being able to use Uber and not have to find a local taxi to get me uphill to the station at 6am!
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