New personal record of steps taken in a single day since I got this phone

Yes I know it's not the snappiest title but according to the app on my Samsung phone I've walked over 23000 steps today carrying my phone, which apparently is over 10 miles. And actually now I look down at my little swollen tootsies I think it's probably about right.

After a surprisingly nice breakfast (your expectations of a very central hotel even with a shared bathroom are modest at 48 euros a night), I left the hotel around 10am, bumped almost immediately into Helena and Tony on their way to breakfast, and then headed for a little river and canal tour which is a bit of a bargain at 7 euros, especially as it takes you to the sides of buildings you can't see from the streets and you get manageable chunks of history thrown in.

I also went on a brilliant 2-hour free walking tour which gave me a really good overview of the history of Ghent and the story behind some significant buildings - it really brought it to life and our guide Nathalie was great with loads of enthusiasm and a good line in anecdotes. Did you realise for example, that swans on buildings (especially in ports and on pubs) traditionally meant that loose women were available within? (Not the pic below - but it's kind of amusing that the very upmarket Marriott hotel is the site of a former knocking shop....)

Other highlights today were the frankly bonkers Design Museum which boldly juxtaposes old and new in a way that just kind of works, (see selfie below)

and a schlep up the steps of the Belfry. I found myself in the room where the drum controlling the bell chimes works, and hadn't realised that at 5.30 it would set in motion - the noise almost gave me a coronary but it was fascinating to watch the strings controlling the bells in action. Heck of a view from the top too.

I also like this sculpture of St Michael slaying a dragon on one of the many little bridges over the river and canals.

And I bought a necklace. The colours are perfect. And I walked out of the shop once and then walked back 150m to buy it as I knew it was perfect. Sigh......

Dinner was solid and relatively cheap but less memorable pasta (the bargain soup at Soup Lounge mid-afternoon was much better) and I now find myself craving vegetables. Ended my evening back for a 3rd time for a nightcap in a bar where I can't seem to get the name right - I thought it was Mercatana but appears not to be correct, so perhaps my favourite bartender so far this trip, the Guardian-reading, impeccably-English-speaking and all-round nice chap Joel can put me right in a comment as have promised to share this blog with him. Highly recommend this place as it's right opposite St Niklaus church so is very central but it's friendly and they do lots of beers and great liqueur coffee.

So goodbye to Ghent tomorrow if I can navigate my way via the tram back to St Pieter's station, where I'll pick up a train to Antwerp and then change for Amsterdam. I've enjoyed Ghent very much - the historical and arts quarters are perfectly compact and so easily walkable for a weekend, so highly recommended. It's relaxed and friendly, though I could've done with a little more sun and a little less drizzle, but hey, a good start to the grand tour.