At 6am on the good ship TTT Lines I was rudely awoken by an announcement asking me to take my key to reception and letting me know that the restaurant was open - most unexpectedly, the ferry was on time, having left an hour later than scheduled. Fair following wind, current (it was a bit rough so I was glad of my cabin, and slept pretty well), I don't know how, but anyway I was delighted to find Chris and Marie already waiting for me when I got off the boat.
Our very competent English-speaking driver Antonio sped us to Positano, and we arrived at our delightful accommodation (sadly up lots of steps so was very glad that Nellie was whisked competently away by Antonio's biceps). We had breakfast with lovely fresh fruit grown in the garden here, and while our room was being made ready we made our way down into town. It's steep - very steep - so dodgy knees beware, though there is a little bus that does a circular route round and round the town. Timings are a bit approximate though so you can wait a while.
We went down steps to the smaller Formillo beach first, which has a whole heap of decent, cheaper restaurants running the length of it. We continued along the coastal path to the little harbour where we picked up info on boat trips, plus hats for Marie and Chris as the weather was turning out glorious thank you very much.
There's not a huge amount to see and do in Positano - if you don't like the beach (very dark sand, and also pretty crowded, obvs), then it's a place to kind of wander around. If you want retail therapy, especially of the clothing or ceramics variety, it's perfect. If you're a pedestrian, until you get right into the centre, it's the usual nightmare. But it's soooo pretty, and of course at night with all the lights up on the cliffs, just breathtaking.
Formillo beach with great informal restaurants with decent food. Burgers? What are they? |
Beautiful cathedral dome in the middle |
We ended up walking in and out of town with all the steps and hills 3 times yesterday - first time back to our accommodation to check in, second time to go for lunch and a further wander, and the third to go for dinner. (By the time I get back in a month I am going to have the most amazing calf muscles.) Our accommodation is fantastic value, with Maria, a great host (her dad grows the fruit we've been eating) - it's a mini apartment, with Chris & Marie sleeping on a mezzanine above, and me on a sofa bed. There's a separate bathroom and kitchenette and a balcony, and with a great breakfast it's costing us maybe less than £40 a night each.
Fresh fish for dinner, an aperol spritz, local wine from Ravello and 2 small ice creams - sigh.....
As I write, it's Sunday and we're about to head off on a little trip to Capri. Chris is very excited as there's a Fiat 500 festival here today and there all going to be "in giro" around the town shortly. Sometimes Italy is just too Italian.
Italy can never be too Italian! Sometimes it's not Italian enough.
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