Nightime to Napoli

Friday 2 October

Well, here I am - another Friday, another boat. I’m headed for Naples to meet up with Marie and Chris tomorrow morning, and then we’re being driven to Positano.

This one seems far better organised that the Dubrovnik-Bari scrum. On arrival into Catania on the bus from Taormina, I managed to find a licensed taxi and he managed to bring me to the wrong end of the port, but all was resolved with the help of a helpful minibus. I checked in early and was allowed to embark straight away - so as I draft this offline there’s still an hour to go before we sail. I’m a teeny bit thrilled because when I went up on deck just now, through the twilight gloom I could see Mt Etna for a while before cloud scudded over it yet again.

Etna is there, really....

Neil and I had one more stroll around the town before I saw him off on the bus to the airport. We visited the so-called catacombs en route - yet another antiquity hidden away without any signposting, probably quite significant for its time, but very difficult to view as it’s on the edge of a busy road with a very narrow footpath running alongside. I know we can overdo our heritage thing in the UK a bit, but I just wish the Italians would give it a little more consideration - the graves themselves had lots of rubbish in them, and it was quite difficult to read the information board anyway. Probably used from second century to the middle ages, anyway - discovered when the road was built around 1887. Hey ho.

From and of the public gardens - now open, more or less

It’s been lovely having Neil as my travelling companion for the last couple of weeks. We’ve rubbed along really well, and even his snoring hasn’t been much of a problem, as he promised me it would be, as we’ve had to sleep pretty close together sometimes. We’ve seen some marvellous sights, had some lovely food and drink, and experienced tedium, frustration and confusion in equal measure when my travel itinerary hasn’t quite gone to plan. We’ve nattered when we wanted to, been quiet when we felt like it, and had some fun too as fortunately what gives us the giggles has aligned pretty well. Neily if you’re reading this, love you lots and thank you for being such a good mate.

After he left, I went for a coffee and had a manicure, managing to avoid getting too wet as it hammered down with rain again as it had done all night . It was money well spent on my grotty nails. and because Erika spoke very little English, I didn’t have to answer questions on where I was going on holiday this year, and she didn’t have to put up with me asking her how busy her salon was and was there really a miracle cure I could try to make my nails look half decent without covering them up with acrylics or gels or whatever.

Next came the purchase of a modest souvenir T-shirt to supplement my restricted wardrobe (and for those of you doubters who said I was bound to pack too much, there are just 2 long-sleeved tops and a sweater I haven’t removed from Nellie yet, so I won’t be coming back with anything unworn unless there is a sudden Indian summer). I had a good lunch, managed not to drink any alcohol (today is my first booze-free day since I left 4 weeks ago - got to be done really!), wandered round a bit more as I couldn’t really stray too far, then collected Nellie from the hotel and walked downhill to the bus station. Amid all the chaos that surrounds every bus at Taormina bus station whenever a new one arrives, I managed to get on the right bus for Catania bus terminal.

So now exactly halfway through my big trip I’m solo again just for a few hours, and looking forward to meeting my dear longtime friends back on mainland Italy for a few days on the Amalfi coast. The constant packing up and moving on is a little bit stressful - I always wake up a bit too early on the day I need to travel with slight butterflies - but I really don’t regret doing it. Of course it hasn’t all gone to plan, but that’s not been because I got it wrong, it’s because of factors outside my control.

Would I do it again? Probably not, well certainly not on this ambitious scale, nor am I likely to get the opportunity anyway. I think this kind of constant travelling is a bit harder the older you are! Neil and I had a conversation last night about it as he’s found it tough too - but I have so enjoyed having a taste of so many places, and when I look at the map and see what I’ve covered, it’s very exciting. Maybe a couple of times I’ve wished I was comfy at home - but  I never, ever, forget or take for granted how lucky I am to be able to do it. Every beautiful view and rewarding walk reminds me what an amazing opportunity this is.

And I got some good news from Crisis at Christmas who have offered me a 2-days a week volunteer post for the rest of my leave as an assistant in their Entertainment and Activities team when I get back next month. My chance, if it doesn’t sound too cheesy, to give something back in return for what life has given me, and to try to help those who don’t have my good fortune.