The sun'll come out tomorrow...

Of course it will, because we'll be leaving. Actually, I'm not sure it will. And for those of you who know him, we bumped into Keith Phillips today (Neil says this always happens to him when he's abroad - bumping into people from work, not Keith) who has been here on his honeymoon for nearly 2 weeks and it has rained solidly, so there's always someone worse off....

Today has been another wet wet wet weather day and although we managed to get out and about a bit, no beach for us - and yet another abortive trek to somewhere vaguely cultural that turned out to be shut, without any warning or explanation. Sigh. And I don't think I have ever seen a turistico informazione that could give less of a shit about whether you bother going anywhere.

The wet weather also brings wardrobe problems. I should've done more laundry in Alberobello when I had the chance, as I've now had to fork out the princely sum of 8 euros 50 to get a small load washed and dried - and even now some of it will have to be packed in plastic bags as it's not quite aired - no chance in this humidity really. Plenty of undies - it's just that for the last few days quite a lot of what I've packed is unsuitable for this weather.

However, today we did have a nice little jaunt on the bus up to Castelmola where the views were wonderful and we were literally up in the clouds at about 400m above sea level.

We had a nice lunch and then got on a tour to a wine tasting about a quarter of the way up Mount Etna, at the Gambino winery which is 850m up and that's as far as you can go or else the grapes can't get enough oxygen. The wines were great and the portions generous, the presentation was really good and we had lovely bread, olives and stuff to eat - we were so mellowed out that of course we ordered a couple of mixed cases to be shipped home, so that will be something to look forward to on my return.

Sadly, because of all the clouds and rain we couldn't get a glimpse of Etna, which at 3300m was just obscured. I had to make do with watching a video on my phone which showed the 2013 eruption - just amazing. The eruptions are contained enough these days not to do any damage to outlying villages.

The view from the foot of Etna, essentially where we were driven, were spectacular, with steep terraces once used for growing olives and grapes (modern agricultural methods have assigned them to just looking pretty as they're not really used any more as they now just dig out the vineyards), massive piles of solidified lava, and villages like Piedmonte di Etna with lavastone pavements and building features.(Souvenir shops everywhere carry lavastone jewellery, along with coral and turquoise).

The trip was also supposed to include a little stopoff in one of the mountain villages, but once we left the vineyard, the clouds rolled in and the rain was torrential so it put paid to that jolly - hats off to Gino the coach driver who handled the hairpins and the wet conditions with aplomb. We had a great tour guide - let's say she wasn't in the first flush of youth and unfortunately kept giving away her 40-a day habit by coughing into the mic - but she was charming and funny and for 34 euros each, we thought we got decent value.

On return the rain paused briefly, but as we neared our hotel the street blacked out after a bit flash of lightning - lucky for us, we were in the bit that stayed alight. We ventured out again after a while and went for a nice dinner, followed by amazing ice cream from the gelateria across the street where the guys all dress in orange, and then  a liquer in what's become our bar of choice a few doors down from where we're staying on Corso Umberto - the Rei dei Bastions. Happy days, if rather wet ones.....