Going for gumbo - a trip to New Orleans

Monday 20 May 2019

Arrived in NOLA (New Orleans Louisianna - the acronym is everywhere) after a comfortable (double seat to myself - whoop!) if chilly flight and 3 movies. Interminable wait at passport control where as usual US Border Security makes you feel like a criminal with finger print and mugshot taking, though at least the guys were friendly. Quick taxi ride, Air BnB accommodation found eventually and specs steamed up as I got out of the cab with the rampant humidity (which thankfully didn't bother me too much the rest of the time). Managed to get in after some fuss as access instructions were a tad unclear and I wasn't at my brightest! Feasted on snacks and beer as I unpacked, very happy with the little shotgun house (so called as back in the day you should have been able to get a clear shot through the house)- went to bed, or rather climbed in as the mattress is at hip height - very comfy though.

Tuesday  21 May

Rose early after fitful night's sleep, rather than lying around getting cross about not sleeping. Walked into city via rather grungy, dusty route and uneven neglected pavements which were to prove my literal downfall later in the day with a spectacular trip and fall on Charles Avenue. 

Arrived at Canal Street and then meandered to Jackson Square for walking tour - area round Bourbon St still quite sleepy at that time, though you can still feel the sleaze. Stopped for coffee and super-sickly almond croissant at Cafe Beignet and enjoyed a jazz trio playing with remarkable energy at 9.15am. Entertaining walking tour of the French Quarter with guide Alec who was about to leave for a Europe trip. Lots of info, some of which I can recall, especially the quirkier details concerning early settlers. French Q is by turns pretty, charming, cultured and sleazy. The well-heeled and the drunken and down and out are present in equal quantities, but along Royale and Chartres I saw more antique shops and art galleries than I could shake a stick at.

Caught the Charles streetcar back - they're charming, and really haven't changed much, though the streetcar named desire sadly closed just after the play opened. It's not the most comfortable form of transport, but it's cheap (3 or 5 day passes are great value), frequent (there's an app!) and a great way to see the city. 

Walked down Jefferson Avenue to Magazine Street in search of recommended po-boys at Guy's, and shops including Whole Foods for some groceries (turned out I went the wrong way for WF!)  Shops are often chichi and quite small but an interesting mix - Magazine St is very long and I think I was expecting some big names, but it's more of an eclectic mix of independents. Found Guy's for the hot chicken po-boy (very nice, but way too big, so though I took half to go I still had to chuck it as pretty nasty served cold) 

Found a grocery store for some essentials eventually, then headed home very sore of foot and in haste tripped and fell over carrying 2 bags right outside Macdonald's. People gathered to help me up and I tried not to cry. Forearm bleeding, knees again the main victims.

Cleaned myself up, kipped a while and went back into the city to meet Kim and colleagues, supped at Bateau (nice Blue Moon beer, pretty ordinary jambalaya with horrid tasteless bread) , quick nightcap served in a PLASTIC cup (tsk - this city lives on disposables) before heading back on the streetcar.

Wednesday 22 May

Streetcar into city, got off a little early and explored a bit around arts district, but not much to see - crossed Canal St, went for coffee at funky coffee shop EnVie on Decatur Street, and then wandered again into French Quarter via Sephora, did bit of window shopping. Met Kim at 12.30, went to Ole Saints for lunch, then we came back to the apartment to settle her in. Later we headed off to Magazine Street - streetcar let us down so walked the 2 miles, with most shops on the point of 6pm closing, so had delicious happy hour margaritas and nachos at Juan's Flying Burritos 

before slightly drunken shopping at Whole Foods - $90 later got an uber home and drank a bottle of wine and ate slightly disappointing WF chicken and salad. Earlyish night and another early wake-up.

Thursday 23 May

Voodoo tour which began and mainly took place in Louis Armstrong park, and was more of a lecture on the religion by Robi, a very flamboyant and entertaining high priest - demo of rituals with very bewildered young Vietnamese tourists! Kim and I were designated high priestesses of the group with me as Matriarch. The tour dispelled lots of myths about voodoo, perpetuated by the Catholic church and Hollywood, but failed abysmally as a walking tour as we can only have walked about a mile!

On to the Pharmacy museum on Royale - lots of dusty exhibits brought gloriously to life in all their goryness by a very camp and brilliantly witty curator - had us in stitches but we learned lots - heroin comes from feeling heroic, lead used for baby bottles because sweet, language of colour for bottles and labels for literacy reasons, how soda fountains came about and much more, including how any woman's ailment was based on hysteria caused by her reproductive systems.

Muffilette for lunch - hmm, can't quite understand the fuss about all these sandwiches. But beer is nice. Wandered around, saw the Mississippi river (very wide, very muddy!), went back to Louis Armstrong park, then great Paloma cocktails at Bar Tonique. Ate near the apartment at Best Western Superior Grill, where the great food surprised us, along with the margaritas that despite being served in styrofoam (which kept it iced!!) were really good and really cheap. Both of us quite drunk, but woke with clear head to news of May's resignation.

Friday 24 May

Headed down to Riverwalk for a little retail therapy - bought some new walking sandals and Kim got a new rucksack, but tbh prices not that much cheaper - we still spent too much time trying stuff on! 

Walked to Tourist Info on Andrew Jackson Square, picked up some leaflets and then went to get streetcar to City Park but realised was going to take longer than we thought - so we bought beignets instead, ate lunch looking out to paddle steamer which we booked for Sunday afternoon. 

We went in search of the Voodoo museum and found it was rammed so looked at amazing Frank Relle photography gallery and beautiful and cultured Louisiana historical collection on Royal instead - feasts for the eyes.

Headed back to be picked up by Kim's old friend Frank and his wife Audrey and they took us sailing on Lake Ponchetrain for a couple of hours - beautifully quiet, saw sun go down and felt very privileged, especially as they then took us for lovely upscale dinner at Cavan on Magazine Street and insisted on footing the bill. Good to walk home as felt stuffed and sleepy.

Saturday 25 May

Across town on the streetcar to the City Park. Beautiful sculpture garden with works by Kapoor, Moore, Hepworth...I think all sculptures should be displayed in gardens. 

Lovely botanical gardens too, with fountains and the cutest  miniature railroad. 

Nice if somewhat tardily-served lunch (beetroot and goat's cheese sliders) and then we wandered around NOMA - some nice works but not really organised that sympathetically, and visit somewhat spoiled by over-officious staff and then disruption caused by setting up for a wedding which was obviously more important than visitors!

Back on the streetcar into town for a swift gelato and a stroll down Royal and a quick supper at Muriel's Bistro (fried green tomatoes- ooh so good) then we got tickets for a show at the Petit Theatre - The Pianist of Willesden Green, a wonderful true story about a young woman escaping Nazi Austria for the UK via the Kindertransport, told in the first person by her daughter, also a concert pianist, so we were also treated to some fabulous music. Very emotional tale, standing ovation - movie coming out soon apparently.

Back out into the teeming streets in search of jazz - bit tricky by this stage of the night. Spotted Cat and Snug Harbor were both full, managed to get into Maison but the band were on their last number and the next act were a bit more funk than jazz. We managed to get into Snug Harbour for a drink and booked to go on Sunday night. Staggered back to Canal Street (Kimmy had had a little too much bourbon!) and then chatted with an army guy on the streetcar all the way home, which provided a Republican perspective on life, Trump and the universe! (though probably not too far to the right...)

Sunday 26 May

Wander round the mahoosive houses of the Garden District, built on the plantations and many owned at some point by celebs including Sandra Bullock, who lives in her Victorian pile for maybe a couple of weeks a year and then leaves it shut up the rest of the time. 

Nice brunch (discovered I really don't like grits or biscuit and should ask for eggs over easy if I don't want gloopy sunny side up) in the cafe of the Pontchetrain Hotel before straphanging on the street car to Canal St and heading to the 2-hour paddlesteamer tour which was very pleasant, including a quiet little jazz band. A little bit of shopping, then home via nearby Fresh Market which I am still kicking myself for not discovering on my first day as if I had I might not have fallen over and still be suffering from a wonky knee and a stingy graze on my arm!

Freshen up and then back into town to go to Snug Harbor for dinner and jazz - latter was better than the former and poor wine choice on my part - but nice evening all the same. Uber back in flashy red car with a driver who said nothing and drove fast! I think I was much drunker than I realised due to powerful Windjammer punch....

Monday 27 May

Audubon Park via a little light retail therapy on Magazine St

Ate lunch in the park and then went to the zoo, attracted by the prospect of the reconstructed swamp with the gators. It's divided nicely regionally/by continent rather than by animal - shame that the tiger was so shy. Loved the noisy flamingoes. Great fish & chips at quirky Delachaise bar near our apartment with a nice bottle of Albarino to finish the day - good step count achieved!

Tuesday 28 |May

Plantation tours via coach with jolly and ever-so-slightly annoying but informative guide - dropped off at Whitney and Laura - both of which were fascinating with really knowledgeable guides who were passionate about revealing the truth of the history of enslaved people in Louisianna. I feel I understand more about slavery and the sugar trade, but feel no less angry about it - abolition turns out to be just a pause on the timeline. 

Kim treated me to an elegant dinner at Muriel's Bistro (which is apparently haunted) to celebrate my retirement, followed by cocktails and jazz at Royal Sonesta hotel - old timers still cutting it, amazing.

Wednesday 29 May

Return to NOLA Historical collection to see the lovely French Quarter and Louisianna galleries, a few bits of shopping to catch up on, and a civilised lunch at shady Cafe Amelia courtyard. 

Frozen margaritas to go from Superior Grill as we packed, then taxi to the airport where everything closed early even if you could afford to buy something (no duty free - WHAT??). Flight delayed but caught up pretty well and back to a dull and chilly Gatwick at lunchtime. 

Great trip with lots of memories. NOLA is a real city of contrasts, very full on - I think a week is enough, though there's plenty to see and it has a unique if slightly sleazy buzz - it really is a city fuelled by alcohol, not always in a good way, but very lucky to have had the chance to see it.

Fake blonde's tour highlights

A lot of people have asked me "what was the best place you visited?", or "where would you want to go back?" I thing that having set myself the challenge of having a taster of so many places, it's not necessarily that everywhere rolls into one, more a case of there are some moments that stick out in my mind where I felt especially happy or moved by what I was experiencing - and some are the kind of things that I may never be able to relive, even if I revisit.

So to assist my own memory and set my thoughts down for the record as much as anything else (so it does go on a bit), here's a list of the best moments.

In Canada - seeing the Grahams again, walking near the lakeside on Prince Edward Island with Toni, and the sculptures in Montreal.

In Boston - having a lovely dinner on the first night across the bay from all the lights of the city, rediscovering the Holocaust memorial, walking the Freedom trail, and visiting the fine art museum; walking on the beach at Hyannis and going to the top of the monument in Provincetown

Losing the fear - 5 September was the day I left for Europe, and as I rushed around my flat getting everything ready and trying to leave it in a good state for flatsitter Geraint, I had a growing sense of trepidation which began to turn into a panic attack. Could I do this mammoth trip, most of it by myself? I was quite tearful and as Eric accompanied me to the station in Clio, I had to breathe deep to calm myself down. Eric came with me on to the platform at Beckenham Junction, gave me a hug and said "I'm going to leave you now, because you're going to be fine". And the train pulled in and I heaved Nellie on to it, and as it pulled away and I braced myself as you do when you're standing, suddenly a great weight lifted and a happy calm descended. Suddenly I knew I was going to be ok. Thanks Eric.

Dinner with H and Tony in the old post warehouse on my first night in Ghent, the picturesque buildings all crammed together in various shapes and sizes, and the golden dragon on top of the belfry. Talking to Joel the lovely barman on my second night there.

The Van Gogh museum, the flower stalls in Amsterdam, and Rembrandt's house where I loved his drawings (though the city itself didn't inspire me that much - too many close encounters with bicycles!)

Spending time with dear friends David, Steve and Rick in Berlin, including of course Cafe Eckstein, and the Red & Gold Bar; Gleich 17 at Grunewald made a particular impression on me.

The unexpected and occasionally bonkers architectural details on buildings in old Prague (but pretty dreadful food)

Feeling so tiny compared to the grandeur of the statues and palaces of Vienna, and the Danube at sunset - my stay there felt too short, and I'd like to go back


Many highlights during my 2 weeks with the lovely Neil, but including seeing Buda by night across the Danube on a beautiful balmy first evening, our Budapest walking tour, and discovering the ruin bars; our lovely apartment in Blaha Vintage; stepping out into the sunshine by the sea in Montenegro after our journey from hell on the train of death (but boy didn't that bottle of red taste good when we got to our quirky apartment?!); the magnificent views from old Bar and also the coach journey to Dubrovnik; walking into Dubrovnik old town with Guy with the beautiful lights following the amazing sunset, and finding that sweet little wine bar in the side street; being given shelter and a beer in a stockroom/kitchen when we got drenched walking the wall; sitting on the ferry watching the lights of Dubrovnik as we sailed away to Italy; the Castellano Grotto caves near Alberobello (and the very bad singing of the busker as we queued); the train from Salerno going on to the ferry bound for Sicily; arriving in Taormina and being given unexpected delicious snacks when we staggered down the street and found a bar for a nightcap after 10pm, having been travelling since 7am; and although the weather in Sicily was dreadful, the breathtaking views such as from Castelmola, the wine tasting near Mount Etna, and not least - having such lovely, easy company for 2 weeks!

The views from the apartment in Positano, the fresh figs for breakfast, the first day lunch at the beach restaurant, the views in Ravello and enjoying the vintage Cinqecentos "in giro" in the company of my old and very dear friends Marie and Chris.

The Pantheon in Rome, and the organic pirandello ice cream I had before I went in; meeting Ana the charming Polish girl and Gianni, a friend of my Air BnB host; the hidden gem of the Palazzo Doria with the magnificent Velasquez portrait, together with seeing Caravaggios for the first time (if indeed that is the plural of Caravaggio)

My lovely Air BnB host Elsa in Milan, with her suggested highlights of the unfinished Michelangelo sculpture and the church of Santa Maurizio with its amazing frescoes.

The lifts and funicular railway in Genoa that transported me to amazing views, together with the two wonderful exhibitions I saw there at the Palazza Ducale, and the bonkers movie tribute museum.

The pont in Avignon against a backdrop of a clear blue sky on a crisp sunny day and the rooftops of Arles, together with the David Hockney exhibition at the Van Gogh foundation

Spending time with Nick and Chrissy Clark in Dernacueilette, especially dinner on Saturday night with Jane and Hanxall, and our trip to the seaside at Courillon, even if the car did break down.

Reacquainting myself in Barcelona with Senor Gaudi, (especially the interior of the Sagrada Familia), Parc Cuitadella, the views from the cable car, and meeting two great NZ women, Karen and Rebecca, on our walking tour

The beauty of the rugged landscape seen from the window of the train en route from Barcelona to Madrid (and from Madrid to Bilbao too)

The joyous mariachi band in La Lantina quarter in Madrid, the buzz of the market and the Plaza del Angel, the fantastically cheap quality wine served with delicious olives, and seeing the powerful and affecting Guernica

The architecture of Bilbao, the Guggenheim (especially Puppy, and especially at night) and the yummy pincxos and wine in every bar

The lights of Paris; the Christmas-glittered sparkly dome of Galleries Lafayette, a sunny Saturday morning in Montmartre, good company and the treasures of the Musee d'Orsay

And finally, Iceland - the dance of the northern lights, the frosted sculpture garden at night, sitting in a theatre watching a show in a foreign language, the sun coming up over the rift valley, the warm bath of the blue lagoon, the sun going down over the geysers, and the sheer majestic and awesome power of the Gulfloss waterfalls.


What a journey I've had. Would I do it again? Well probably a less punishing schedule, and not for two months, but railway journeys yes and accommodation at under £40 a night yes!

What a beautiful place the world is, despite the crap that fills our news feeds every waking hour. And all I can think of is how lucky am I to have seen so much of it...

Hot and cold and very beautiful

Here's a potted version of my Iceland trip -as always I've been trying to cram so much in, I've run out of time.....

On Thursday morning I tramped around Reykjavik - a city centre which is even tinier than I'd been led to imagine - it really is like an English county town, except with a slightly strange collection of buildings, a mix of corrugated steel and concrete. There's a lot of building work going on, not all of it popular (the locals really don't want yet another hotel, and who can blame them?) and the graffiti "taggers" as well as the artists have made it this far north - so I wouldn't call it picturesque, though it has a charm and of course with an incredibly low crime rate it has no edge to it. I saw a police car today, and apparently that's quite rare!

It's very laid back (service in some places a bit too much so!). For lunch yesterday I was in search of traditional lamb soup, but couldn't find it so ended up with some jolly nice fish soup in a restaurant called Laundromat - it's the first time I've paid £14 for soup, but I was in a rush to get to my free walking tour and desperation had sunk in. If you want a burger or any other kind of fast food in Reykavik, it's easy! I did succomb to a hot dog from the famous van today - been here since 1937. It was only a couple of quid and actually quite nice for a hot dog. Fastest service ever!

I was recommended a nice little cafe bar called Kaffe Konsul and can report back that both coffee and cake are excellent, and service with a smile in easy chairs.

The walking tour was taken by a wag who fancied himself as a bit of a comedian, and gave us quite a lot in the way of history, but not much in the way of walking and I'd like to have seen a few more monuments, historic buildings and such - it didn't help to orientate me the way that other tours have done. But I met 3 really nice women and met them again on the Golden Circle tour, and we've been out for dinner tonight as it's the last one for all of us. And despite the Icelandic comedian where the only part of his act we understood was the strangled cat, we had a nice evening listening to some Christmas songs, eating fish and drinking wine. Kate, Tracey and Annie, I hope we meet again soon - it's been a pleasure.

Also on Thursday night I got on a coach that took me to another coach that took us out south east of the city to see the Northern lights. I did see the aurora borealis but not in colour - it was white and subtle but very pretty nonetheless, and I was quite mesmerised. Once it had ebbed away, we went on to Thinvellir to try and catch some more - though sadly they didn't materialise, I did see the best starry starry night ever, plus shooting stars and more twinkle than I could every imagine. No pictures whatsoever have come out - :0(

A first this trip - going to the theatre to watch something in a foreign language! I'd been lucky enough to be given a free ticket to the National Theatre of Iceland's version of the RSC's Robin Hood - I was told as it's very visual so I should be able to work out what was going on and I could - it had a lot of As you like it about it, with Maid Marian being Martin and so on. It was very physical, almost circus-like, with lots of music and performed with great vim and vigour. But considering it's a production aimed at families, was quite surprised by the level of suggested violence. Really - hangings, threatened beheadings and throat slittings, a tongue cut out - plus quite a lot of sexual references that even I and the kids could understand, plus a wet camisole (there was much use of an on-stage pond, and a fiery pit - really well used) . I guess Icelandic children are brought up on Vikings....enjoyed it nonetheless, with very inventive use of a massive sloping backdrop covered in green velour.

However, having gone straight home to bed on my return the night before, apparently I missed a spectacular show visible from the city itself if you were high up enough. So last night after the theatre I went out to the beautiful church (below)which is fairly high up and was treated to 4 little shows - I got very excited and cried a bit.

The other bonus, courtesy of Wendy from Colerado who was also up at the church (we'd met at breakfast on the first day, and she loves Reykjavik so much she's been about 12 times), was a moonlight visit to the sculpture garden of Einar Jonsson. It was made even more special by the sparkling frost on the sculptures, which are quite breathtakingly beautiful. I returned there tonight with Tracey, Annie and Kate, as a consolation prize for not having seen any aurora...

I didn't really take any pictures of the Blue Lagoon as I hadn't realised I could acquire a special waterproof pouch, but to be honest it all got a bit misty and hard to see. I enjoyed the warm waters, and the mud face pack - would like to have stayed a bit longer and spent more time in the sauna and steam room, but must admit that the presence of the annoying and slightly drunk American I mentioned in my FB post was a bit of an encouragement to get my scheduled bus. Very pricey though! 10 quid for a towel, a drink and a few samples on top of the entrance fee included in the trip. The area around it is like a lunar landscape - beautiful and bizarre.

When I came back I checked out the National Gallery of Iceland and was a bit disappointed as the main exhibition by Nina Tryggvadottir didn't float my boat. They're very proud of a Picasso they acquired 'Jacqueline au ruban jaune'

and I really enjoyed the scupture of Nina Saemundsson, who also has a work just down the road of a woman and child. There are lots of great sculptures around the city too

Mother and child

From a distance - yes I thought he was real...

Sculpture in the park

My last day was the Golden Circle coach tour which took in Thinvellir the rift valley where the tectonic plates of Eurasia and North America meet, Gulfloss with the amazing waterfalls, some exploding geysers and finally a little show at Fakasel of the very cute and very talented Icelandic horses, who have 2 extra ways of moving beyond a walk, trot or gallop - they also have a tolt and a pace move where their legs go 19 to the dozen and their rider remains remarkably still. And here are some photos of all these beautiful things

Sundown near the geysers

My name is Mushroom, and I can trot really really fast

Golfloss

The rift valley - America meets Europe

Orgasmic guyser

|Little ponies in action

I left early this morning with a slightly tight and fraught journey to the airport in terms of timing - and Mr Minneapolis was in my departure lounge, but thankfully although he didn't recognise me I still hid anyway. Home is very mild in comparison, and the first load of washing is done. I now have 9 weeks til I go back to work and it's going to be so tough....

Iceland is beautiful place - it's so dramatic and wild, yet Reykjavik is so parochial. Can't decide whether I want to return for the land of the midnight sun or again when it's snowing with a second chance to see a more animated northern lights and the beauty of the snow and ice. Gotta save up first though....thank you Vikings....